Briefing and Design:

After an initial chat we'll come back to you with design proposals, usually in the form of an illustration and colour/fabric swatches. Once design and costings are agreed we can make a start on the build.

 

Fittings:

For made to measure costumes, fittings are an essential part of the process - according to the distances involved this time may have to be factored in to the cost.

 

Our tutus are built in the traditional way with good strong foundations.

 

The tutu base:

10 layers of netting graduated from tiny leg frills to the largest top layer (in all usually around 10m of netting!). These layers are hand pleated and sewn on to a knicker which we prepare from 2 layers (for greater opacity) of  bobbinet mesh fabric.

The leg openings are edged with a casing into which we feed a length of elastic to ensure a snug fit. We insert a steel hoop discreetly into the mid layers to help the tutu keep its shape. The tutu layers are steamed and then set for a couple of days to form their shape and  then tacked together. Some makers use plastic tagging guns to save time. We favour the look of the traditional hand sewn methods so will do this where the budget allows. (If under stress the plastic tags can damage the netting.)

 

The decorative top plate:

Often highly decorated, the tutu's top plate is separately prepared and fixed to the tutu base before the bodice is fixed in place. The plate is sewn to the top tutu layer to make sure that it stays in place, even during partnering work.

 

The basque:

Sometimes hidden (under long line Russian bodice styles) or seen (in 2 piece styles) the basque is an essential element for keeping the costume securely fitted to the dancer's body. The waistband has a little 'give' in it for comfort but is securely fastened to avoid unwanted slipping. We will usually make 'stay' strings which are sewn from the waistband to each bodice seam to keep all elements working together.

 

The Bodice:

Lots of options will be discussed at the design stage, the possibilities are endless, chose different top lines, inset panels, sleeves, cuffs etc. As with the top plate the bodice is often highly decorative with lots of things to make the costume sparkle and catch the eye.

We line our bodices with strong cotton coutil which breathes well but keeps a good shape. Extra support can be provided in the way of boning where necessary, we use a spiral steel boning to provide strength whilst still allowing movement.

Strong hook and bar fastenings are the norm.

Normally we fit strong lingerie style shoulder straps in an ivory colour which can be pancaked by the dancer/company to match the skin.